Installation Of HHO

Pre-Installation Check List

Pre-plan your installation and gather any necessary tools before you start the actual work
Tools and equipment that may be helpful: voltmeter, electrical tape, wire crimping tool, drill & drill bits, selection of screws and screw drivers and wire cutters (side cutters).
Determine where you will position the generator. This should be away from engine heat as much as possible to allow for coolest operation. Positioning near the front of the engine compartment provides the maximum air flow and cooling. Keep wiring and hoses away from moving parts and high heat sources such as exhaust manifolds. Other spots include: near the firewall and brake booster.
Determine how you will secure it in place: bungee cords or large tie wraps are good options.

Determine where to inject the HHO into your car’s air stream. Usually the air intake OR air filter housing are good choices.
Find a 12 volt electrical source, preferably, an ignition switched 12 volt electrical point to power the generator, or better still, if you are using electronics such as a Green Source PWM, EFIE combo OR ProTuner, you can take advantage of our simplified wiring, explained later in this manual.
Determine where you would like to position the illuminated toggle switch.

Electrolytes Overview

HHO generation requires the electrolysis of water, H20. Electrolysis is dependent on current flow, which in turn is dependent upon the conductivity of the water. Since water is a non conductor, you need to add electrolytes (chemicals) to your water to increase current flow to a usable rate.

1 table spoon KOH, NaOH = 15 ml = 30g
1 tea spoon KOH, NaOH = 5 ml = 15g

In order of increasing strength (which also means increased efficiency and personal hazard), they are:

Sodium Hydroxide NaOH

Also called “lye”, it is a very efficient electrolyte, highly conductive and CAUSTIC. It is used mostly as a strong chemical base in the manufacture of pulp and paper, textiles, drinking water, soaps and detergents and as a drain cleaner. Pure sodium hydroxide is a white solid; available in pellets, flakes, granules and as a 50% saturated solution. It is very soluble in water with liberation of heat. Find this in agriculture stores or in grocery stores labeled “Red Devil” drain cleaner. Also available at industrial chemical suppliers and good hardware stores.

Potassium Hydroxide KOH

The most efficient of the commonly used electrolytes, some 40% better than NaOH. KOH is considered a dangerous good and subject to shipping regulations in most countries. Available on eBay and online chemical distribution centers KOH is an inorganic compound. Along with sodium hydroxide, this colorless solid is a prototypical “strong base”.

Set Up and Use

Determine what electrolyte (chemical) is best suited to you. KOH/NaOH is the preferred choice. Mix 2 tablespoons of NaOH or 1.5 tablespoons KOH in 1 litre of distilled water in a large plastic container. Once MIXED, pour into the generator. Note: the mixing container should be considered non fit for food and beverages afterwards Replace the BLACK, threaded fill cap and FINGER TIGHTEN ONLY. The refill cap has tapered threads intended for sealing,
THEREFORE it will NOT thread all the way in. Rotate two full revolutions as described, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN it.

Steps to have a successful HHO installation:

Get HHO into the engine and adjust the sensor inputs as necessary so the ECU is not blocking the gains. If these two things can be achieved, there will always be improved fuel economy and decreased emissions. This technology works. And because it does, all vehicles can be solved. If you are having a hard time getting the results, you just need to go through these items and find the reasons your gains are being blocked.

1. Is your device making HHO? The most common problem we encounter is that HHO is not being produced, or is not getting into the engine. Check your system. Measure the output of your HHO cell by doing a water displacement test. A system should provide 1/4 – 1/2 litre/min of HHO per litre of engine displacement. Typically you should have 6-12 amps of current, depending on the size of your engine. Alternatively, you can look at the HHO bubbles: place hose in a glass of water. You should see 2-3 bubbles per second. Check whether your unit is making HHO or steam. If your unit runs hot to the touch, you must suspect that at least part of your output is steam. One way to test for steam is to run your gas outlet over some ice. If you get significant amounts of fog forming (water droplets), you know that at least part of your output is steam.

2. Is the HHO getting into the engine? Check for leaks. A check valve oriented in the wrong direction
can block the HHO from getting to the engine. Spray your hoses and connections with soapy water to expose any leaks in your system. HHO is very tiny and it will float away quickly if not contained.

3. Do you have an EFIE installed? Many customers with older vehicles, are successful after simply resetting their computer (after installing HHO) and do not require EFIE. Computer reset occurs by disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes OR with the aid of an OBDII code reader, that plugs into your dash socket, under the steering wheel.

4. Do you have the right type of EFIE? Wide band EFIEs will not work for Narrow band sensors and
vice versa.

5. Is your EFIE installed correctly and on the correct wire? Refer to the instructions for the type of EFIE you installed. If you have the correct phenomena for your signal wire, make sure you have the upstream sensor. Installing the EFIE on the wrong wire is one of the most common mistakes.

6. Reset your computer. Some computers are able to “learn” and adapt to the conditions that exist in your engine. Since you have made a major change by adding an HHO system and EFIEs, you may need to reset the computer to erase what it learned about the system when it was inefficient.You can reset your computer by disconnecting your battery ground wire from the car, and leaving it off for 15 or 20 minutes. It is recommended to do this every time you make a change to the EFIE’s setting.

7. Is your EFIE functioning correctly? Check your manual to verify if your wiring is correct and measuring is as per our specifications. This is the single greatest cause of unsuccessful installations. Make sure you are connecting the correct type of EFIE for your car. Wideband or narrowband? Make certain you have an excellent ground connection, direct to the vehicle body or frame. Do not add extensions to the ground wires, especially on our EFIE combo and PWM. It will create enough error to render the EFIE useless.

Before proceeding to the following steps you should make sure that all of the above steps are completed. The following are less likely to be the source of the problem, and require some additional expense.

8. Is your air cleaner dirty? A dirty air cleaner can ruin gas mileage. It causes a richer mixture by
restricting air flow to the engine.

9. Do your oxygen sensors need to be replaced? Oxygen sensors wear out. You should replace them after 60,000 miles. If you are experiencing engine stalls or fast idle, this can be a symptom of bad oxygen sensors. If they are old, it is likely that replacing them will give you a good increase in mileage all by itself.

10. Is there something else mechanically wrong with your engine? You will often find that if your engine is not working properly, just fixing it can give you a dramatic increase in mileage all by itself. If you had any kind of check engine light before starting the project, you should get this fault explored and handled. If you’re not sure, reset your computer, turn off all of your HHO, EFIEs and any other added modifications, and see if you still get a fault code. If so, get it fixed first, before adding your modifications.

11. Do other sensors need adjustment? After treating the oxygen sensors, the most likely sensor still needed to be treated is the MAF or the MAP. After treating the MAF or MAP, the other sensors that can be tuned with profit are the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) and CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor).

12. What did we miss in the steps above? All vehicles can be solved. Some of them are a little tougher than others due to the way the ECU was programmed. If you have got to this point and your vehicle is still not been solved, one of the above steps is still out.

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